Skin care products, including cosmetics, are a $5 billion-a-year business in the US. Not only are baby boomers more concerned about looking and feeling younger than their parents, but we are also teaching our children about eating and exercising properly, as well as taking better care of their skin. I remember as a teenager, baby oil and iodine was the leading tanning product!
As we have developed more sophisticated knowledge of how the skin ages, it has allowed us to better understand what we can do to slow down and sometimes even reverse the process. Cosmetic chemists have developed whole new classes of products including antioxidants, cell-repairing complexes, and moisture-retention compounds. Many contain amino acid chains called peptides.
Amino acids are proteins that are essential for cell structure and maintenance. Peptides are being developed to inhibit enzymes, stimulate collagen, reinforce capillaries, increase firmness, and promote hydration.
Hyperpigmentation is a problem that develops as we age. With lifelong exposure to the sun, melanin production is triggered in our skin and produces localized areas of hyperpigmentation such as age spots and melasma. Peptides inhibit the formation of tyrosinase, an enzyme that produces melanin, the pigmentation cell in our skin. Melanostatine is one of the more common lightening peptides. Because of concerns about hydroquinone toxicity in high percentages, many physicians are now looking for alternatives to hydroquinone therapy.
Haloxyl is another peptide found in many eye creams. It strengthens the capillaries and reduces the dark circles under the eyes. Dark circles occur because red blood cells leak through weak capillary walls and deposit hemoglobin, which contains iron, into the tissue of the lower eyelid. Haloxyl also reduces puffiness in the lower eyelids through its anti-inflammatory properties. Another product found in eye serums is Eyeliss, which has similar properties to Haloxyl.
Treating fine lines and wrinkles has also improved with the development of peptides including Dermaxyl, Biopeptide CL, and Argirilene. These peptides stimulate skin cellular damage and results show that it is less inflammatory than retinol and retinoic acid. They also regenerate collagen and have a “plumping effect,” which makes them popular in lip products.
From a preventative standpoint, peptides are being developed to counteract enzymes triggered by UV exposure including cytokine. Rigin controls cytokine production to prevent skin breakdown. It also improves elasticity in the skin and protects it from losing water.
When looking at products for your skin, ask your skin care specialist if they contain peptides. If not, ask for products that do.
Frequently Asked Questions
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins. In skincare, peptides are celebrated for their ability to signal the skin to produce more collagen, elastin, and other essential proteins. This is crucial because as we age, our natural production of these proteins diminishes, leading to signs of aging such as wrinkles, sagging skin, and loss of elasticity. Peptides are included in skincare products to help rejuvenate the skin, improve its texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Peptides can help reduce hyperpigmentation by interfering with the production and distribution of melanin, the pigment responsible for dark spots and uneven skin tone. Certain peptides, such as oligopeptides and hexapeptides, have been shown to inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme critical in melanin synthesis. By doing so, these peptides can help lighten dark spots and create a more even skin tone. Additionally, peptides can promote skin repair and regeneration, further aiding in the reduction of hyperpigmentation over time.
Haloxyl and Eyeliss are specialized peptide complexes commonly used in eye creams and treatments to address issues like dark circles and puffiness under the eyes.
- Haloxyl: This peptide complex targets dark circles by reducing the appearance of pigmented blood components that accumulate under the skin. It strengthens the capillaries and stimulates the removal of the blood-derived pigments responsible for dark circles, thus brightening the under-eye area.
Eyeliss: This is a blend of peptides designed to combat puffiness and bags under the eyes. Eyeliss works by improving lymphatic drainage, reducing capillary permeability, and increasing skin firmness and elasticity. The combination of these actions helps to reduce swelling and enhance the appearance of the under-eye area.
Peptides combat wrinkles primarily by boosting collagen production. Collagen is a protein that provides structure and elasticity to the skin, and its production naturally decreases with age. When applied topically, peptides can penetrate the skin and signal the fibroblasts (the cells responsible for producing collagen) to ramp up collagen synthesis. This results in plumper, firmer skin and a reduction in the depth and appearance of wrinkles. Some peptides also have anti-inflammatory properties, which can further improve skin texture and reduce wrinkle formation.
Peptides can help prevent skin aging by addressing several key factors that contribute to the aging process:
- Collagen Boosting: By stimulating collagen production, peptides help maintain the skin’s structural integrity and elasticity, preventing sagging and the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.
- Skin Repair and Regeneration: Peptides can accelerate the skin’s natural repair processes, promoting cell turnover and healing damaged skin.
- Moisture Retention: Some peptides enhance the skin’s barrier function, helping it retain moisture more effectively. Well-hydrated skin is less prone to developing signs of aging.
- Antioxidant Effects: Certain peptides have antioxidant properties, protecting the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental factors like UV radiation and pollution, which can accelerate aging.